As with everything in Budapest, there are far-reaching changes on the taxi-front as well. As opposed to the grim situation of some years back, nowadays you can get a taxi at any time and in almost every part of the city within minutes and there are also a number of taxi companies waiting for your telephone call.

But chaos on the taxi-front still prevails. Obviously, it doesn't matter how serious an offence they commit, nobody can really be stripped of their permit. Recently city hall managed to maximise fares and simplify the fare system. But enforcing is still not the real thing in Budapest. I can sense a slow change, though.

Taxis can be hailed in the street; they are for hire only if the 'TAXI' sign is lit up. If you are ordering one by phone, give the address, then your full name and telephone number. English is almost always understood.

Try to avoid the 'hyenas' queuing at hotels and at the railway stations. The worst are those working at the airport. Insist on the meter being turned on - and on paying in forints.

At the airport the situation is still bad, you are better off taking the Airport Shuttle or the universally praised Airport Minibus Service. When you land, a leaflet is given to you about this service operated by the airport authorities, and you can pay for it while you are waiting for your luggage. When leaving Budapest you can get it to pick you up from where you are staying. This is a fair, reliable and affordable service. At hotels insist on the receptionist ordering a taxi for you. Otherwise, you can be sure of going on a zigzag route and of being overcharged.

I may be biased, and I don't very often resort to taxis, but there are three companies who do seem straightforward, so I can pass this information on to you. Ring them up yourself, or insist that the receptionist in your hotel use one of them when ordering your taxi. You can usually ask for a non-smoking car, I mean a car whose owner doesn't smoke and who doesn't let passengers smoke.

Fotaxi: 222-2222

Citytaxi: 211-1111

Yellow Pages Taxi: 200-0000

Taxi drivers in Budapest are generally outgoing and talkative people who actually do circulate the latest news and know about everything. It is worth asking them if they can speak any foreign languages. And remember to check whether the meter is on. You are not obliged to pay if it isn't. However, an English-speaking driver is still a rarity in Budapest, and will probably be working for a VIP service.

Most locals remember the telephone number of the first and at one time the only (state) taxi company; however most of their best drivers, who used to know the city inside out, have gone private. (Look for the taxi driver's badge of honour on the dashboard: a plaque given for 1/4, 1/2 and 1 million accident-free kilometres.)

One of the oldest of taxi driver jokes: A driver drives straight through all the red lights without hesitation. When he arrives at a crossing where the traffic lights are green, he stops immediately. 'Can't we go now?' asks the customer, who is shaken up from the ride. 'No way,' the driver says. 'This is when the taxis are coming from the right.'